Remember folks, my whole intention of "rebuilding" this pistol is to fix what I see as problems. I've listed what I thought of as problems in my first post about it. One of the things I forgot about was the ejector. The original ejector was loose, and it shouldn't be. So I ordered a new one.
I had thought a lot about "extended combat" ejectors and such, but decided to stick to my philosophy of "if it ain't broke don't fix it". So I ordered a "standard Government Model" ejector. When it got here, well it was not like the original.
I'm assume that the "standard" GM ejector changed design sometime between 1927 and going out of production. The one installed above is the new one, and is extended just a bit. I'll have to wait and see how it works with the GI ejection port. It was easy to install, just drive out the pin above the plunger tube, pull off the old ejector with a pair of pliers, and put the new one in the holes. Seating it all the way with a brass hammer, and replace the pin. Viola!
Next up is the beaver tail grip safety. I've got to admit this was the most time consuming, and I'll tell you why: I didn't buy the installation jig. When I ordered this part, I thought I had ordered it to fit a .250" radius cut. What in fact I ordered was the Wilson (of Wilson Combat) cut, which has some kind of compound radius, not the simpler .250" radius*. So, I didn't think I needed the jig to cut the radius on the back of the frame tangs.
*The Wilson cut and the .250 cut or Ed Brown cut are different. I am basing my opinion of the .250 radius being simpler on observation of the jigs for both styles. The .250 may be harder, I've never worked on one, although the jig for it is a simple 1/2' hardened rod that fits on the back of the pistol via the thumb safety hole. Maybe it's not simpler,I could be wrong, and full of crap, but I doubt it.
Anyway, I had planned on making my own guide jig for cutting the tangs. Now it would just be harder to make. I did find that inside of the grip safety did fit a 1/2" wooden dowel nicely. I marked the hole and found that it was off center.
That little bit of being off center would make a big difference if it was not aligned right.
I made another for the other side and drilled it as well. I used a drill bit the same diameter as the thumb safety shaft to hold them together, aligned them and marked them.
It looks misaligned, or not straight, but it is a camera trick i guess. They were both straight on the fit up.
From there I aligned them on the frame, and carefully removed the tang until I got close.
Then a lot of hand filing and checking for fit until it was right.
When it got "really really" close, I switched to sandpaper over the file so as not to take off too much.
Here you can see How I knew where to remove metal.
I used a blue sharpie pen to color the area in question. Then tried to fit the part up and move it through it range of motion. The part of the blue that gets worn off is where there is interference. Remove that part and try again. Remember, I'm only removing a few thousandths between fits.
Here you can see the "initial" final fit. I say initial because although it has been fit to the frame, there is still some cosmetic work to do.
The tangs and the safety do not meet perfectly. A little sanding to make them both flush is needed. I know that some folks will poo poo my use of a dremel tool to do some gun work. Well, poo poo to you too. It works. I've been a alumni of the WECSOG for a while now.
A quick pass with a sanding wheel to even up the edges on both the frame and the safety. Then I used the same wheel on the top of the tangs where the grip safety meets. Makes it all nice and even.
Later in the process, I had fit the EGW firing pin retainer and new extractor. After that I put the slide on the frame and evened up the entire rear of the pistol. I'll show you now, or I'll forget later.
I suppose I've used up enough bandwidth with all these photos for now. I'll post more in another installment soon.
I am very interested in feedback, either good or bad.